Seasonal Tips - January

Take down Holiday Lights and store for next season.
Make notes on how many lights were used where, how extension cords and timers were utilized, any problems encountered and ideas for next year's display with a list of items needed for next season. Take pictures of outlets with 3-way plugs and timers in place (if it was complicated at all) as a guide for next year's set up.

Plan annual plantings for spring:
Review any pictures you may have taken last season and make notes:
*What worked well and why
*What didn't work and why
*What will you do differently this year
*New plants you'd like to try
This information is perfect to begin or add to a Garden Journal.

Dormant prune as weather allows January through March.
This is the perfect time to prune back fast growing deciduous shrubs for size control and rejuvenation. Better to make drastic size reductions now. If done during the growing season when foliage is present, drastic pruning will make a shrub look chopped and naked for a good part of the season. The same pruning done in winter when the plant is dormant will allow for a fuller, natural looking plant from the start of the season onward, requiring minimal touchup pruning after its spring growth spurt. Some shrubs that lend themselves to dormant pruning are spirea, burning bush, forsythia, barberry and weigela.

Pruning dwarf lilacs and viburnums can also be done now if they have gotten too large for their area. However, be aware that you will get very few (if any) blooms come spring.

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Seasonal Tips - February

Dormant prune as weather allows.
This is the perfect time to prune back fast growing deciduous shrubs for size control and rejuvenation. Better to make drastic size reductions now. If done during the growing season when foliage is present, drastic pruning will make a shrub look chopped and naked for a good part of the season. The same pruning done in winter when the plant is dormant will allow for a fuller, natural looking plant from the start of the season onward, requiring minimal touchup pruning after its spring growth spurt. Some shrubs that lend themselves to dormant pruning are spirea, burning bush, forsythia, barberry, and weigela.

Pruning dwarf lilacs and viburnums can also be done now if they have gotten too large for their area. However, be aware that you will get very few (if any) blooms come spring.

Cut back large ornamental grasses that were left up for winter interest.
Some people may want to leave these grasses in place until spring. Keep in mind, however, that the longer they are up, the more they will break apart and blow around your yard and your neighbor's yards. Large grasses may require gas powered hedge shears - tie the grass up with twine before cutting to keep the debris together for an easier cleanup. Large ornamental grasses can be cut back safely to approximately 1 foot in height without damaging the crown of the plant. After shearing off the top bulk, cutting the outside edge lower than the center all the way around the base will give your grass plant a more appealing upside down bowl shape rather than leaving a flat top - giving the finished grass a more shrub-like appearance until spring growth begins.

Dwarf grasses are not as messy as larger ornamental grass and can be left up until early spring. They can be cut back much shorter than the larger varieties, to approximately 4 - 6", as long as the crown of the plant is not damaged.

Before spring growth begins, any foliage left standing over winter should be cut back as close to the crown as possible. New growth comes from the crown. What was left standing from last season is dead and will remain among the fresh shoots.

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Seasonal Tips - March

Dormant prune as weather allows.
This is the perfect time to prune back fast growing deciduous shrubs for size control and rejuvenation. Better to make drastic size reductions now. If done during the growing season when foliage is present, drastic pruning will make a shrub look chopped and naked for a good part of the season. The same pruning done in winter when the plant is dormant will allow for a fuller, natural looking plant from the start of the season onward, requiring minimal touchup pruning after its spring growth spurt. Some shrubs that lend themselves to dormant pruning are spirea, burning bush, forsythia, barberry, and weigela.

Pruning dwarf lilacs and viburnums can also be done now if they have gotten too large for
their area. However, be aware that you will get very few (if any) blooms come spring.

Cut back large ornamental grasses that were left up for winter interest.
Some people may want to leave these grasses in place until spring. Keep in mind, however, that the longer they are up, the more they will break apart and blow around your yard and your neighbor's yards. Large grasses may require gas powered hedge shears - tie the grass up with twine before cutting to keep the debris together for an easier cleanup. Large ornamental grasses can be cut back safely to approximately 1 foot in height without damaging the crown of the plant. After shearing off the top bulk, cutting the outside edge lower than the center all the way around the base will give your grass plant a more appealing upside down bowl shape rather than leaving a flat top - giving the finished grass a more shrub-like appearance until spring growth begins.

Dwarf grasses are not as messy as larger ornamental grass and can be left up until early spring. They can be cut back much shorter than the larger varieties, to approximately 4 - 6", as long as the crown of the plant is not damaged.

Before spring growth begins, any foliage left standing over winter should be cut back as close to the crown as possible. New growth comes from the crown. What was left standing from last season is dead and will remain among the fresh shoots.

Lawn fertilizing should begin with a pre-emergent for crabgrass prevention.

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Seasonal Tips - April

Begin spring leaf cleanups as weather allows.
Leaves on the lawn will most likely be taken care of with the first mowing, but shrubs and evergreen trees will have caught leaves inside and beneath them and will need cleaned out by hand.

Lawn fertilizing should begin with a pre-emergent for crabgrass prevention.

Cut back and cleanup perennials as needed.
Most perennial foliage will have decomposed if it was left up for winter, but hard flower stalks will remain. Cut these off at the base of the stalk and clean up any dead foliage that remains. Some perennials left up for winter protection, such as liriope, ladies mantle, coral bells and lavender can be cut back and/or cleaned up at this time. Be sure to cut back and clean up any ornamental grasses still remaining before their new growth begins.


Rose Care Begins: Cut back and thin out old, crossing and dead canes. Cut healthy, green canes above buds that point away from the center of the plant if possible. Begin feeding roses with a systemic insecticide/fertilizer and mark this date on your calendar with consecutive feeding dates noted as well.

Fertilize acid loving shrubs* with a spring application of Holly Tone.
This organic granular product is readily available in various size bags at Garden Centers. Follow application directions on the package.
*Azalea, rhododendron, magnolia, dogwood, holly, hydrangea, boxwood, evergreen shrubs and trees , etc.

Remove any deer netting or burlap installed for winter protection.
Apply a spray-on scent or taste repellant to susceptible plants to protect them from spring and summer deer browsing if necessary - applying and re-applying per label directions.

Fertilize spring-blooming bulbs while in flower with bulb-tone or other bulb specific fertilizer.

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Seasonal Tips - May

Irrigation Systems should be started up.
Check for broken or damaged irrigation heads and be sure coverage is sufficient and
appropriate for your yard and garden.

Annuals will be available in the garden centers way before it is safe to plant them. If you must purchase plants early in the month, be prepared to haul them in most nights and out again each morning from your garage! Be cautious and watch the long term weather forecast before placing anything in the ground.

May 15 is our official frost-free date, however, frosts, freezes and even snow have occurred in Ohio well past this date! Be prepared to cover planting with some sort of frost protection (cloth, not plastic) if we get a cold night or two after you plant.

Good soil preparation is the key to a successful annual planting.
A small tiller will make short work of this step and allow for the addition of some organic soil amendments at the same time. Work some season-long time-release fertilizer into the area, as well as a quick release fertilizer, such as Flower Tone. Some annuals are heavy feeders and will require a mid-season boost as well to keep them blooming and their foliage lush and green. A good preventative step against weeds is an application of a weed suppressant, such as Preen, at planting - and again mid-season. A finely ground pine
bark or compost product, such as shredded leaves or Sweet Peet, makes a great mulch for annuals to hold in moisture and keep down weeds. It then serves as a soil amendment the following spring as it can easily be worked into the area during soil prep.

Shown is a small sampling of annuals we've found that are low-maintenance, easy care...no deadheading needed!

Hydrangeas can be pruned back after all danger of frost is past.
Old fashioned hydrangeas that bloom on only old wood should be pruned carefully, removing dead wood stalks and cutting back to live budded growth. Newer varieties of hydrangeas that bloom on old and new growth will bloom reliably no matter how far "winter die back" occurred. Hydrangea trees should have last years blooms pruned off, as well as branches thinned and cut back to prevent the head of the plant from becoming too large or heavy.

Peonies will need support once their blooms begin opening. Peony rings or plant stakes with twine strung around the perimeter of the plant should be in place before the plantreaches its full size. Once the plant is full size and the flower heads begin opening, it is generally too late to install any kind of support system.




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Seasonal Tips - June

General watering:
Keep annuals and container plantings well watered. Watch the weather for lawn water needs. Anything newly planted (shrubs, trees, ground cover, perennials) will require more water than established plantings.

Roses should be ready for another systemic insecticide application, if your product needs re-applied every six weeks.

Japanese Beetles will be arriving soon.
Decide what your tolerance level is for this pest and the damage they do and be prepared to do battle accordingly. Lawn fertilizations should contain grub control product. Generally, grub control can be applied now up until late summer, but sooner is better. The best time for grub control is around the first week of August when grubs are small and near the surface (top 2"-3" of soil). General maintenance and weed control:
A 2" to 3" layer of mulch on shrub beds will help hold in moisture and keep weeds to a minimum. Weeds are inevitable in any landscape. Be careful not to confuse all-purpose herbicides with those intended for use in lawns. An all-purpose herbicide will kill everything it touches or drifts onto. An herbicide for use on lawns will not kill the grass, if used properly -- but will kill only broadleaf weeds. Always read the directions and warnings on these products, being aware of people and pets, weather conditions and environmental issues.

Pruning:
After the spring flush of growth has occurred and hardened off, it will be time to prune evergreens such as taxus and junipers. Shrubs that were "dormant pruned" in the winter may require a touch-up of wild growth to keep the shrub tidy. Spring blooming shrubs, such as lilacs, viburnum and magnolia can be safely pruned now, as well, once blooming is finished.

Bulb foliage can be cut back as it becomes unsightly or problematic for other plants that share its bed. If foliage is in an out of sight location and not interfering with other plants or annuals, it can be left to dry up until it can be easily removed with a light tug. Ideally, bulb foliage should be left up until it dies back naturally. The bulb is using the green leaves to make carbs for winter storage and the energy for next spring's flowers.

Put flower stakes and rings in place for tall perennials you know will need it.
Better to have them in place before the plant reaches its mature blooming size.

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Seasonal Tips - July

Keep annuals, roses and perennials tidy by deadheading as needed.
Pinch faded flowers back to the set of leaves closest to the top of the stem. For many plants, this will promote new blooms. Some new varieties of annuals do not require deadheading and will look great all season with minimal care, such as: angelonia, lantana, and supertunia. Annuals grown for foliage interest, such as vinca vine and sweet potato vine, may need pinched back for size control and fullness.

Roses will be ready for another fertilizer application late this month if on the six week program.

Water as needed:
Annual containers may need watering twice a day as temperatures rise into the 80s and 90s - especially on windy days. Keep an eye on shrubs and perennials for signs of stress and water accordingly. Even established plantings and trees will require additional water during times of inadequate rainfall (less than 1" per week). Plants underneath tree canopies or under building overhangs will start to suffer in the July heat without watering as well, no matter how much rain is falling from the sky.

Raise your mower height.
As summer temperatures rise, raise the blade on your lawn mower to 3" or more to keep your lawn greener. This will put less stress on your lawn, allow the grass to shade the soil and conserve moisture in the ground.

Secure stakes to tall-growing perennials to keep them upright, if not done in June.

Cut back perennials.
Reblooming daylilies and aggressive perennials such as salvia and catmint will benefit from a mid-season cut back. Cutting gangly, spent or yellowing perennials such as these to the ground - being carefull not to damage the crown - will give them new life for the second half of the season. Daylilies, especially those such as the Stella D'oro (which blooms all season), will come back lush and green and bloom well into late fall.

Daylilies that bloom once for a shorter period will benefit from the cut back after blooming as well, since their foliage will return green and healthy instead of the yellowing mess you would otherwise have if left untouched

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Seasonal Tips - August

Re-apply a weed suppressant, such as Preen, to problem areas. Give annuals a fertilizer boost - watering with a weak solution of MiracleGro with each watering is a good idea as well. Annuals are usually starting to peak. This is a perfect time to take pictures of your garden for reference later. Its also a good time to get great ideas from other plantings you see while out and about or traveling - in outdoor malls, at the zoo, etc.

Roses should recieve their last fertilizer application for the season.

Continue deadheading, watering, fertilizing and weeding.

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Seasonal Tips - September

Fertilize acid loving shrubs* with a fall application of Holly Tone.
This organic granular product is readily available in various size bags at garden centers. Follow application directions on the package.
*Azalea, rhododendron, magnolia, dogwood, holly, hydrangea, boxwood, evergreen shrubs and trees, etc.

Mums will be readily available at every store and garden center.
These plants will require plenty of water and deadheading to look nice. Purchase mums that are just starting to open and show color for the longest bloom possible. Those that are fully open have already peaked and are on their way downhill! Mums planted in the ground this late into the season will rarely survive the winter - if mums are something you would like to add to your perennial planting, plan to add them in the spring or early summer when they will have time to establish themselves. However, finding hardy mums early in the season is not easy.

Begin cutting back perennials as they finish up for the season and start to decline - black-eyed Susans come to mind!

Irrigation Systems should be shut down and winterized.

See Irrigation Services




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Seasonal Tips - October

Some annuals will need to be removed as they become frosted.
Begonias, impatiens and coleus are a few very tender annuals that will be ruined by the first light frost, while other hardier, cold-tolerant annuals will last well into late fall.

Pot up some ornamental peppers and kale into containers for a late season kick of color. These look great with pumpkins and ornamental grasses.

If you have an ornamental water feature, consider covering it with bird netting to keep the inevitable fall of leaves from landing in it.

Spring blooming bulbs can be planted this month - and all the way up until the ground is frozen, usually sometimes into December. With the exception of daffodils, which need 4 weeks before freezing. Work in a fertilizer, such as Bulb Tone, when planting bulbs, following the directions on the package.




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Seasonal Tips - November

Remove frosted annuals and perennials. Large ornamental grass can be cut back now, depending on your preference - if we are having a mild fall, you may want to leave it up until snow is predicted. Once a heavy snow has toppled it, these grasses will begin breaking up and making a mess.

If fall has been dry, give shrubs, perennials, shade and ornamental trees some supplemental watering at this time. They will be better prepared to go into winter with a good supply of moisture at root level.

Burlap fences or wraps should be put in place for winter protection of wind and salt sensitive evergreen plants. Columnar shaped evergreens will benefit from a sturdy wrap with twine - some may only need their inner trunks tied together at 3/4 height. Consider the future of any shrub located under a dripping overhang that may cause ice or snow damage to it.

Protection for certain plants from deer browsing is an issue to be visited this time of year as well. Many products are available - ranging from deer netting to taste and scent repellents. For certain evergreen plants, simply wrapping them securely in burlap, like you are wrapping a gift, is a sure-fire method of protection - although unfortunately it's not very attractive.

Final weed attack:
Weather allowing, weeds sprayed with herbicide this late into the season will not have a chance to recover before the really cold weather delivers them a double whammy. Chances are very good that a late weed spraying will prove to be well worth the effort come spring - as long as the weeds are still green, actively alive and growing when sprayed.

Leaves:
If you are able to shred your leaves with a shredder or mulching mower - the resulting organic matter make an excellent mulch and soil amendment for perennial beds.

Late fall lawn fertilization
should be applied for strong root development while lawns go dormant for winter.

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Seasonal Tips - December

Fall garden tasks are extremely weather dependent at this point. It's always nice to have some mild, dry weather for doing some late leaf cleanups! Pin oak trees will typically wait until now to drop. It is rare, but sometimes dormant pruning is even possible! See our notes on January tasks for more on that topic.

Thinking of buying a live Christmas tree? Check out our newsletter on live Christmas tree care!

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